Saturday, June 22, 2013

Roseau (N15 17.200/W61 22.623)


 

The alarm sounded at 6am.  We had one hour to shower, have coffee/breakfast and be ready for Lawrence of Arabia to pick us up (from our boat) at 7am for our River Boat Tour.  It was lots of time to ‘veg’ before heading out.

It was a little surprising to see how prompt Lawrence was.  At exactly 7am, he was along side our boat and ready to go.  I was kinda expecting ‘Island Time’ and didn’t know what time we should expect him!

The Indian River is part of the Dominica Parks System.  No motors are allowed on the river.  Lawrence had to row the entire length up and back.  It reminded me very much of some of the rivers back in northern Florida (where I used to cave dive).  The branches overhung the river and made a dark canopy of green not far overhead.  I said a silent prayer that we wouldn’t see any spiders or snakes as the river narrowed and the branches hung so close to the water, which we had to push through them at times.  I could just envision me being your typical female and screaming and crying if a snake fell into the boat!  Luckily, my prayers were answered and it was an uneventful trip in those aspects J


 

We saw some of the coolest looking root systems of the Bloodwood trees.  The muddy banks were crawling with land crabs.  Since it is a national park, these are protected and have multiplied in numbers.  They were everywhere you looked. 



Have you watched the Pirates of the Caribbean movies?  Remember when they went up a river to visit the witch?  Well, this was that river and here is the cabin they built for the movie.  It fit in perfectly with the eerie shadows and darkness.



The river continued beyond where we stopped but it got shallow and narrow (at least that’s what we were told).  We reached a river bar and got out to look around.  Lawrence said during peak season, there would be over 200 tourists stopping here at any given time.  Today, it was just the three of us.  Very cool place and would have been interesting to see in the peak season when it was hopping!  But the solitude made it seem spooky and fit with the atmosphere surrounding us.



We would highly recommend Lawrence of Arabia if you are ever in this area.  He was very professional, gave a wonderful narrative of the river, and was very friendly.  Soulmatie gives him an A+.  The cost for the tour ($25 US/per person – includes the $5 park fee).  Thanks for a great trip Lawrence.

After the tour, we were dropped back at our boat.  Lawrence had pointed out the market that he said has very good fruits/veggies.  He offered to take us but we choose to go on our own so we could be at our own pace.

We bought quite the assortment of fresh veggies (2 huge cucumbers - $1.00, 1 super sweet pineapple - $3.00, a small bag of onions  - $1.00, a small bag of potatoes - $1.00, a large bag of leaf lettuce - $2.00, (5) green peppers and about (10) small sweet peppers - $2.00).  Total price $10 US … great fresh veggies to supplement our diet and go with the bananas and tomatoes we’d bought yesterday.  Yeah!!!

We decided to head south along the Dominica coast to the capital city of Roseau.  We are hoping to find a guide to take us on a waterfalls/rainforest tour tomorrow.

The guidebook says/shows that you can anchor just south of town in about 10 feet of water.  Well sure you can … if you want to be up on shore with your first swing at anchor.  First off, it was all private moorings (not mentioned in the book).  Secondly, we sailed the coastline looking for that 10 feet of water.  We stayed within about 100 feet of shore and didn’t see anything less than about 70 feet (unless you were at someone’s mooring and then it dropped to about 40 feet).  The elusive 10 foot anchorage evaded us.

As we approached the area, one of the boat boys (Sea Cat) approached us and asked if we needed assistance.  Since we planned on just anchoring, we told him no but that we’d get with him later to talk about tours.  After our unsuccessful trip up and down the town looking for a suitable anchorage spot, we called him on our VHF.  It took a bit for him to finally respond but he did come out and point us to a mooring.  Now, these moorings looked scarey!  They were just bottles tied to a line (no fancy balls like in the other mooring field).  At first, we weren’t even sure if it was a mooring or a crab trap!  But he helped us tie up and surprisingly, we held through the night.

BUT … it was horrible!  We pitched and rolled our way until finally, daylight broke.  We got very little sleep, partly because of the motion and partly because of the fear of breaking the mooring and ending up crashed on shore!  We couldn’t imagine another night like this so about 5am, we untied the line and set ourselves free.  We were headed to Martinique!

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