Friday, June 21, 2013

Dominica - Portsmouth (N15 34.865/W61 27.800)


Perfect Day!  We released Soulmatie from the mooring at 8am and headed between the beautiful island chains of The Saints.  It was more than picture perfect!  We were sailing as a ketch (all three sails raised) and just zipping along.  Complete silence … the way sailing is supposed to be!

Weather forecast … NE to E winds, 15-20 knots, 5-7 foot seas.  Reality … very close this time.  Probably the closest we’ve had a weather forecast in a very long time.  The only exception is the winds were definitely East … maybe slightly SE … but even so, it was an amazing ride.  Larry referred to us as having flown to Dominica because we were flying.  We averaged over 6.5 knots but a lot of the time we exceeded 7 … even 8 knots … and we were strictly sailing … no motor!  Compare this to the 3 knot average going from Nevis to Guadeloupe and you can see why we were excited!

A couple of storms in the distance threatened to ruin our perfect day but none actually hit us.  The sky was blue with intermingled fluffy white clouds. 

We were anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica well before noon.  There are a surprising number of boats here in the anchorage.  Probably 10-15.  And most of them seem like cruising boats.  Maybe we’ve caught up with some of those heading south?

This is a funny country.  They have ‘boat boys’ … guys who come out to your boat for anything you can imagine … to help you anchor/moor, to act as water taxi to take you to customs or shore, to arrange guided island/river tours, even to sell you fruit, vegetables, ice, etc.  Each boat is painted colorfully with the persons name (or call name) in large letters on the side.  We are working with Lawrence of Arabia since he approached us first.  We’re going to go on a river tour with him tomorrow.

Larry went ashore to clear customs; another awesome nation for clearing.  It cost $4 US and we were able to clear in and out at the same time.  This means, when we’re ready to leave, we do not have to visit customs again to get our clearing paperwork.  We already have it.  Hope this is an example of the future nations cause we can really afford these fees.  After clearing through the Bahamas, Turks & Caicos, and the DR (where the clearing fees were in the hundreds of dollars), we thought clearing fees were going to break us!  This is nice J

We went ashore for an early dinner and attempt at WiFi.  Yeah, right!  I guess in the islands, there is no such thing as an EARLY dinner.  The restaurant we were going to was highly recommended by the cruising guide.  It was supposed to open at 4pm.  The girl (bartender) finally showed up at about 5pm and until she got there, no one could do anything to assist us with WiFi, drinks, or food.  Until she arrived, we could just wait and wait and wait.  This wait had better be worth it!

We ordered grilled Mahi sandwiches w/fries.  About an hour after we ordered, our food finally arrived.  The cruising guide said Blue Bay Restaurant had generous servings at reasonable prices.  We paid $27 EC (about $10.80 US) for each sandwich.  I didn’t even know you could filet Mahi so thin.  The filets were tiny.  The buns were rock hard and the sandwich as a whole was cold.  Highly recommended by Chris Doyle … NOT recommended by Soulmatie!

The only decent thing about the restaurant was that the Carib beers were on special (Happy Hour) for 5 for $20 EC (about $1.60 US each) … not the best prices we’ve seen in the islands … but not bad.

As soon as we got back to the boat, ‘Nature Boy – Mickey’ was waiting with our ‘stuff’.  We bought 5 bananas and 4 small tomatoes for $15 EC ($6.00US) … not bad but we’ll have to see how it all tastes.  Larry says they smell wonderfully fresh!

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