Tuesday, May 28, 2013

At Sea – BVI to Anguilla (N18°12.135/W63.05.620)


A roller coaster ride thru hell


 May 28, 2013 – May 29, 2013

11:15 am, Larry motioned the ‘anchor up’ signal from the bow of Soulmatie and I turned hard to starboard, circled around and headed for the channel.  Our journey had begun.  What the next 16-20 hours would hold for us was an unknown.  My anxiety level was at a peak and I said a silent prayer for a safe voyage.  

Offshore weather forecast for the next 24 hours … winds from the E at 15-25 knots, seas 5-7 feet with a 6-8 second wave period.  Once we get off the island banks and into the actual ocean waters, there should be a nice roll to the waves and although we are heading directly into them, we will adjust our speed and try to attain a nice ride … gently up one side of the wave and down the other in the 6-8 seconds between swells.

For about the first 2 hours, we were still in the shallows of the coastal waters.  When the ocean waves hit the shallows, they get broken up and choppy.  These seas were very choppy.  We knew we could not judge the ‘real’ ocean conditions until we were off the banks.  It was a long couple of hours.

We started out doing about 5 knots (into the wind).  We assumed our speed would drop some once we hit the deeper waters.  We did not anticipate this …

Out in the open seas, it was a mess.  There was no rhythm to the seas.  They remained choppy.  Have you ever lifted the lid to your washing machine during the wash cycle?  See how that center thingy swishes the clothes to the left, then back to the right … continually back and forth.  Well toss a little toy sailboat into that and there you have it … that was us.  We’d be tossed to starboard then back towards port before Soulmatie even had time to right herself.  Then it would be nose into a huge wave.  At those times, it was hard to tell exactly what would happen.  It would depend completely on our position as the wave hit.  Sometimes, Soulmatie was thrust skyward and as she crested the wave, she would fall back down with a huge THUD!  Sometimes, she would remain level as the wave passed and gently slid down the other side (those were rare occurrences) and sometimes, we would dive bow down under the wave as a torrent of water came smashing against the windshield of the cockpit.  Then it was back and forth, up and down … in that gyrating motion.  This went on hour after hour.

We kept a log of our journey.  Each hour, we would write down time, position, bearing to our destination, distance from our destination, and average speed for that hour. 

Our total trip was 77.2 miles.  If we could have maintained a 5 knot average, it would have taken us less than 16 hours.  If our average drops to 4 knots, it was going to take about 19 hours.  Dropping to 3 knots, it would take about 26 hours.  But … when our average speed hit 2 knots for 2 consecutive hours, we knew we were in trouble.  At that speed, the trip would take about 38 hours!  We had to do something!

At about 7pm, Larry turned 10 degrees off course.  We took the wave slightly over the port bow instead of dead on the nose.  Our sail was able to stay almost full instead of flopping erratically like it had been heading dead into the wind.  It was not comfortable but it was 1000 times better. 

As the hours progressed, this change in direction caused us to slip off course.  We watched as our track took us from only a few feet off route, to 1 mile, then 2 miles, then 3 miles.  When it hit 3.8 miles, Larry decided he had to change routes again.  He gradually brought us back to within 1.8 miles while I tried to get some rest.  Heading back towards the line for our route was a rough passage.

We were motoring.  We had the mainsail up for whatever stability it could provide but it was providing minimal forward thrust.

  Actual weather once in open seas, 30-35 knot winds with gusts exceeding well into the 40’s (head on the nose).  Wave height, difficult to determine since the seas were in such disarray … waves came at us from many directions … some small and choppy, some large and breaking.  There was no actual ‘wave period’ between waves.  The seas were a mess.  In addition, we were fighting a 1 - 2 knot current against us.

We took shifts being on-watch, typically switching off every 3-4 hours.  Larry took longer watches during the day while I tried to rest.  I took longer watches at night while Larry tried to sleep.  He’s much more successful at sleeping underway than I am.  At least he got a little sleep.  I don’t know if I got any.  How can you sleep when your body is being tossed in every direction?  I’d even secure myself with pillows tucked under my back and front to stop me from rolling but it didn’t help.  It was useless.

Just as the sun peaked over the horizon, Larry called me on-deck.  We could see that the top of the sail was shredded.  I remained on careful watch as he went out on deck to drop the sail.  I hate him on deck in those messy seas but at least he’s tethered to the jack lines.  (These are continuous line run down each side of the boat from bow to stern.  You attach a tether from your safety harness to the jack line for safety when you’re out on deck.  We use this any time the seas are rough and ALWAYS at night.)  For the remainder of the trip, we would be tossed even more violently … not having the sail to steady us anymore.  Damn!

Finally, about 8:30 am, we passed from the deep ocean waters onto the shallower Anguilla Banks.  The water went from thousands of feet deep, back to less than 100 ft.  The seas calmed slightly and as we progressed, we were finally able to reach 5 knots.  The last couple of hours to shore were bearable.

We dropped the hook exactly 23 hours after raising it in the BVI.  Our 16-20 hour trip had been extended by 3 – 7 hours.  Now remember that wasn’t 3 – 7 hours of sitting around lounging on the beach … it was 3-7 MORE hours of being tossed violently at sea.  It made for a VERY long trip.

We anchored in the northeast corner of the bay, in 7 feet of water.  We’re close to shore.  There are a lot of other boats here but we seem to be the only ‘cruising boat’.  Most of the other sailboats are marked with Anguilla as their home-port.  Wonder how far we will have to go to actually meet other cruisers who might be headed south … or have we missed the window completely?

 After a brief nap, Larry went ashore to clear customs.  Nice … it only cost $19.00 US for us to stay thru Monday.  We’re not sure how long we’ll be here before moving on to St. Martin but I’m sure Monday will be easily sufficient.

Now here’s a story …

First let me tell you … anchoring is easy … especially if there is minimal wind and no current.  The procedure is simple.  I pick a spot where I want to anchor.  I slowly maneuver the boat a little ahead of where I want the boat to settle.  Once the GPS shows that I have stopped, I put the engine into reverse, every so slightly, so we just begin to slip backwards and I signal for Larry to drop the anchor.  He lets out chain and watches the best he can to make sure the anchor is going to lay properly on the bottom (flukes digging into the sand).  As we’re drifting back, he continues letting out chain.  He puts out about 5 times more length of chain than the depth we are in (a 5:1 scope).  Then we sit and wait for that comforting ‘tug’ as the wind pulls us tight on our chain.  If it’s set good, you get that ‘tug’.  If it isn’t set properly, you continue to drag backwards.  Once you feel that ‘tug’, I increase the RPM’s slightly in reverse.  I watch the GPS to make sure that as I’m increasing the RPM, the speed is sitting at zero.  We are going nowhere … our anchor is set.  It usually takes one attempt, less than 5 minutes.  

As we sat at anchor tonight, we watched the boats come and go in the bay, a few SunSail Charter boats came in (probably from St. Martin).  Wow, was it ever comical.  It was our entertainment for the evening.  The one boat tried for well over an hour to get his anchor to set.  They were in about 11 ft of water.  They would move slowly forward into a clearing and while they were still moving forward, the captain would tell the girl on the bow to drop the anchor.  The blond bimbo would let out maybe 10-15 feet of chain.  Sometimes, you could tell it hit bottom, sometimes, it didn’t even make it that far.  The captain would continue going another 100 ft or so forward (dragging the anchor) and then reverse.  In reverse, he would just sail through the anchorage, not letting any more chain out.  He couldn’t understand why the anchor wasn’t holding.  After about his 5th attempt, he had become the center of attention.  All eyes in the anchorage were on him.  He tried and tried again.  At one point, he gave up and moved to a different location to try.  He didn’t even raise the anchor out of the water when he maneuvered to his next spot.  He just dragged it along.  The anchor chain rubbed hard against the hull as it was being dragged thru the water.  Obviously this was not his own boat or he never would have treated it like that.  After well over an hour of this, someone from a nearby boat (who had a vested interest in making sure the anchor was well set and NOT going to drag into his boat in the middle of the night) swam over and assisted.  He snorkeled down and set the anchor by hand and then told the blond bimbo on the bow to let out line.  She’d let out about 5 feet.  He’d say … more line, let out a lot more line.  Another 5 feet would drop.  Finally the guy says something like, come on … drop a bunch of line will ya?  The girl’s reply is, I’m not a sailor but I sailed with my dad a lot and he never let out this much line.  DUH!!!  You need at least a 5:1 scope.  If you are in 10 feet of water, you want at least 50 feet of line out to ensure the right scope (angle of the anchor in the water).  But with the help of the stranger, they were finally set.  Entertainment was over for the evening.

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